Several basic cutting styles are used in cutting cubic zirconia and lab created gemstones.

Step Cut. Graduated rows of facets are cut into the sides of the lab created stone, much like the steps in a staircase. Sloping, four-sided elongated facets characterize a step-cut lab gem. The classic emerald cut which is actually an eight-sided, slightly rectangular octagon and the square cut are examples of the step cut. The octagon cut traditionally used to shape cubic zirconia emeralds is basically a rectangle with a very small facet added at each of the four corners of the gem to protect the corners and provide a place to position prongs when setting the stone. While step-cut lab gems and cubic zirconia have fewer facets than brilliant cut gems, their geometric shape is particularly appealing in large pendants and cocktail rings.

Brilliant Cut. While the most popular brilliant cut shape is the traditional round used in wedding and engagement rings, ovals, pears, marquises and heart shapes can also be brilliant cut. When a brilliant cut is applied to a square-shaped lab gem, it is called a princess cut. Trillions are triangular-shaped lab gems with a brilliant cut. Most brilliant cut lab gems feature three-sided facets radiating outward from the center of the stone. Some gem cutters may include kite or lozenge-shaped facets while cutting. Facets are cut and positioned to enhance the interplay of light within the gem. White AAAAA cubic zirconia diamonds, lab sapphires, lab rubies and other lab gems generally receive a brilliant cut to enhance their inner fire, outward sparkle (brilliance) and beauty.

Mixed Cut. To achieve desired fancy shapes like hearts and stars, gem cutters may have to combine step cut and brilliant cutting techniques. Some unusual effects can be achieved by mixing cutting styles. The high-domed rose cut, unusual checkerboard and concave-faceted millennium cut are examples.